[The Jeju Weekly's introduction to exile tourism is here and you can download our four-page Jeju Travel in pdf here.]
Chusa Exile Road
Course 1: The Road of Meditation
Start and Finish: Chusa Memorial Hall
Time: 3 hours
Distance: 8.6 k.m.
1 Chusa Memorial Hall - a memorial hall commemorating Chusa’s life.
2 Songjuksateo - a place of rest and contemplation for exile Donggye Jungon.
3 Songgyesunjipteo - the site of Chusa’s first exile dwelling.
4 Natural spring - Chusa collected water here.
5 A memorial stone to Donggye Jungon - A place of remembrance for Donggye Jungon.
6 Hannam Uisik site - One of Daejeong-eup’s three representative sites for the birth of modern education.
7 Jeongnanju Maria’s Tomb - A site of importance for Jeju’s early Catholic heritage.
8 Nammunji Pond - A scene often depicted by Jeju’s exiles.
9 Dansan (mountain) and tower - Soak up the atmospheric Dansan and the “bangsatap,” or guardian tower for Jeju villages.
10 Natural spring - Chusa collected water here.
11 Daejeong Hyanggyo - The site of a Confucian school since 1416, frequented by many exiles.
Chusa Memorial Hall
9 a.m. - 6 p.m./Adults 500 won; Children 300 won
44 Chusa-ro, Daejeong-eup, Seogwipo City, 82-64-760-3406
National Treasure #180, the hall is modeled after “Sehando,” Chusa’s masterpiece and the two-storey building has three basement levels plus three exhibition halls and an education room. Chusa called his abode here “Gyuljungok,” in praise of the local mandarins and his student, Kang Wui, called it “the snail house” because Chusa sat patiently, snail-like for 10 years.
Transport to Chusa Memorial Hall
Bus: Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal #750 (toward Sinpyeong and Boseong)→ Daejeong-eup Chusa Exile stop→ Walk 100m → Chusa Memorial Hall [1h 10mins]
Car: 1135-ro (Pyeonghwa-ro) [40mins] → at Anseong Junction (the end of 1135-ro) join the 1132-ro and then the first right again onto Chusa-ro → drive about 400m → Chusa Memorial Hall
Course 2: The Road of Connection
Start: Chusa Memorial Hall
Finish: O’Sulloc Tea Museum
Time: 3 hours
Distance: 8 k.m.
❶Chusa Memorial Hall - a memorial hall commemorating Chusa’s life.
❷Suwoli Pond - A village pond surrounded by stones inscribed with Chusa’s poems.
❸Chusa and mandarins - Chusa loved Jeju’s “gyul,” which are abundant here.
❹Jeju Pottery Village - Historic and active kilns are present here, as they were in Chusa’s day.
❺Chusa and plums - View Chusa’s beloved plum trees.
❻Gotjawal - Chusa was often inspired by Jeju’s unique volcanic woodland.
❼Chusa and letters - Post a message at this “bangsatap” letterbox, just as Chusa sent letters to family and friends.
❽Chusa and horses - Chusa developed an affinity for Jeju’s horses.
❾Chusa and tea (O’Sulloc Tea Museum) - A sincere friend of Chusa’s, Choui sent him tea to stave off his loneliness. Learn about Korea’s rich tea culture at Jeju’s premier tea farm.
Transport to O’Sulloc Tea Museum
Bus: Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal #755(toward Jeju Global Education City)→ O’Sulloc Tea Museum[45mins]
Car: 1135 road(Pyeonghwa-ro)[15~20mins]→turn right at Donggwang 1 junction→ right side(3 o’clock) toward Global Education City→Drive 4.79km and turn right→ O’Sulloc Tea Museum
Course 3: The Road of Tenacity
Start: Daejeong Hyanggyo
Finish: Andeok Valley
Time: 4 hours
Distance: 10.1 k.m.
Depart: Daejeong Hyanggyo - Founded in 1416, this Confucian school was frequented by many exiles.
❶Chusa and engravings - a collection of Chusa’s signature seals, or “wandang inbo.”
❷Chusa and health - Chusa warded off his sickness with tea, ginseng and Sanbangsan’s health-giving waters.
❸Chusa and love - Chusa longed for his deceased wife and this site commemorates his poem, “Sadness at my wife’s death.”
❹Chusa and his pen name - Chusa had hundreds of “ho,” or pen names, expressing his art and personality.
❺Chusa and the Chang River - Chusa often visited this river to find fresh water and inspiration.
❻The Changcheon exiles - The river also has deep associations with many of Jeju’s other exiles.
Transport to Daejeong Hyanggyo
Bus: Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal #750 (toward Sinpyeong & Boseong)→ Daejeong-eup Anseong-ri→ Cross the street and Fork left after Hannam Hotel→ Walk about 1500m→ Daejeong Hyanggyo[1h 40mins]
Car: 1135 road(Pyeonghwa-ro)[40mins]→turn right at Anseong junction(the intersection with 1132)→At a forked road, take left side. drive about 500m →Turn left at the junction in front of Nonghyup(toward Hannam Hotel)→ Fork left and walk about 1500m→ Daejeong Hyanggyo[1h]
The Jeju Seongan Exile Road
Start and Finish: Jeju Mokgwana
Time: 1 hour
Distance: 3 k.m.
This route runs along the old castle walls of Jeju City, hence the name meaning “inner castle.” Jeju Mokgwana, the provincial seat of government during much of the Joseon era and into modern times (1423-1914), also contains the military training complex, Gwandeokjeong, National Treasure No.322 and the oldest standing building in Jeju (1448).
❶Jeju Mokgwana - the Joseon provincial seat of government
❷ Yi Ik - plaque
❸ Kim Yunsik - plaque
❹ Choe Ik-hyeon - plaque
❺ Song Si-yeol - pagoda and poem
❻ Sanjicheon river
❼ Kim Jin-gu and Kim Chun-taek - the two exiles’ former residence
❽ Seojubo - commemorates Jeju’s “jongshin,” or permanent exiles, known as the “seojubo.”
❾ Yi Se-jik - Samajae, the residence for passers of the state civil service examination
❿ Kim Jeong - memorial stone and poem
11 Jeju’s Five Scholars - altar
12 Jeong Byeong-jo - plaque
13 Kwang Hae-gun - plaque
14 Yi Seung-hun - plaque
Transport to Jeju Mokgwana
Bus: Jeju international Airport→ #500 (toward Jeju National University) → Gwandeokjeong → Walk to Jeju Mokgwana [10mins]
The Myeonam Exile Road
Start: Yeonmi Village Hall
Finish: Bangseonmun Valley
Time: 2 hours
Distance: 5.5 k.m.
The path is still in development and runs through Jeongsil Village on the outskirts of Shin Jeju to the Bangseonmun Valley. Bangseonmun, “Gateway to the Gods,” is a site deeply connected to exiles and scholars who etched messages onto the valley rocks.
❶ Yeonmi Village Hall (site of a school founded by Yi Gi-on)
❷ Munyeon Temple (temple to honor Choi Ik Hyun and Yi Ki-on)
❸ Min Oreum
❹ Jeongsil Village
❺ Bangseonmun (area of natural beauty with historic rock engravings)
Transport to Yeonmi Village Hall
Bus: Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal → #5 → Yeonmi Village Hall → Walk about 30m → Yeonmi Village Hall [15mins]
ⓒ Jeju Weekly 2009 (http://www.jejuweekly.com)
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